Hyena joining our evening braai

Posted on by Jan Kriel

When a wild uninvited guest shows up...

Hyenas are animals known to be more active during the night than the day, if encountered at night they can scare the living daylights out of you.

Due to the magical folklore myths, which surround them, humans have branded Hyena as evil. Having spent many hours in the bush, both day and night I have come to understand their ways and habits – especially at campsites at night. Such is the following story, which has once again played off on one of the Bundu Trail wilderness camps.

The boma of the Bundu trail was very primitive, consisting of Tamboti logs stacked on top of each other with gaps in-between. The gaps between the logs were large enough to allow a “night creature” to enter.

There was this one hyena that made a habit of visiting the campsite at night when there were no guests around. This also in its own way created an opportunity for taking photos and contributed to the guests ‘African Experience’.

#krugerwildlifeantics

During such an evening with a full complement of guests on the trail, we were sitting around the campfire just listening to stories and enjoying the night sounds. We were in deep discussion regarding the safety surrounding such a Bundu trail unfenced camp. Strange how brave we are during daylight but as soon as the sun sets everything changes.

I could hear the hyenas approaching from a distance, as if they didn’t care one bit whether they were heard or not. I could hear the familiar rustle in the undergrowth as one of them made his way to the boma. The guests were enjoying their bush experience and were chatting away about the day’s sightings. There was no reason for me to make them aware of the hyena…..or at least not yet.

As soon as the shadow of the hyena appeared just outside the ring of light of the fire, I ordered the guests to just sit still and be quiet. This is something you shouldn’t sy to the guests too suddenly in an unfenced camp, as they would always expect the worst to happen. I sat back into my chair and calmly drew the attention of the guests to the unexpected visitor to camp, I informed them to just relax and enjoy the moment. The curious hyena was checking us out through one of the boma fence gaps.

You could hear a pin drop in the dust around the fire, it seemed that all just stopped breathing for a minute. The excitement mixed with fear. I reassured the guests that there was nothing to be afraid of and asked them just to stay calm.

In anticipation they waited for his next move, again I reassured the gusts that they were safe and should not confront the hyena but rather stay calm and sit still. I told them that the hyena would just sniff around to see if there is anything he might be able to scavenge. On his knees the hyena put his plan into action and crawled through the gap into the boma latterly a few meters from us. It seemed that he didn’t even notice us and all the eyes fixed on him, he slowly made his way towards the table which was set for the guests for dinner. After satisfying his curiosity he walked back to the gap through which he had entered, turned around and lay down staring at us, much to the amusement of the guests.

Realizing that he meant no harm, but waiting for us to go to bed so he could scavenge whatever was there he could take, the guests relaxed and continued chatting away. The guests were raving about having a hyena for dinner while they themselves were enjoying the food and taking picture of the hyena while eating. They were all pondering about what the family back home would think of the situation when they tell them they had a hyena as a guest for dinner.

I just smiled while clearing up after dinner in the moonlight sky, with a watchful eye on the hyena – and his watchful eye on us.

A Spot of Bother in Kruger National Park

Posted on by Jan Kriel

The following incident occurred in February 1996 while I was visiting the acting camp manager of Sirheni Bush Camp, Hein Grobler, in the Kruger National Park.
Arriving at Sirheni late one afternoon after driving all the way from my home town Vereeniging, (about 7 hours’ drive), I was informed that Hein had gone to Skukuza to have a malaria test done at the local doctor. Without unpacking I decided to go for a drive.

As I crossed the low-water bridge I was surprised to find that the gravel road towards Babalala picnic spot was open, despite recent heavy rains. To be on the safe side, I drove towards the tar road to Babalala to see if the gravel road was open from the other side and whether it was possible to drive on the loop.
It was open. So, I took the gravel road back towards Sirheni, which had a few dry drifts to cross. About 8 km from camp on the gravel road I had to cross a little drift. From where I was, it didn’t seem like it should be a problem so I decided to proceed. On doing so I got stuck in the loose sand. So, I got out of the vehicle and started putting branches under the tires – to no avail. Eventually, I had tried every possible method without success.
Being a frequent visitor to my friends in the park, I knew the camp managers made sure all guests were back at the camp when the gates closed in the afternoon. So, I waited until it was about the time for visitors to return to camp and decided to blow the hooter of the vehicle in the hope of attracting someone’s attention. I hoped they would realize I was in a predicament and needed assistance, and was sure help would follow.

By 19h00 a light rain started falling and prevented me from walking the 8 km to camp. By now, my tiring journey in excess of 600 km to Kruger Park through the night, made me feel sleepy. I thought I might as well doze off a bit while I was waiting in the hope that help would arrive. At around 22h30 I woke up feeling very cold and wet, and I was frantic when I saw that the car was filled with water up to the seats! When I looked up through the windscreen I could see the water coming over the bonnet of the vehicle and with the rapidly rising water, I knew I had to do something – fast!

Luckily my suitcase was still in the vehicle so I packed all my loose item into it and focussed on getting out. Opening the door proved to be a challenge with the force of the water against it – kicking it open with force from the inside looked like the only solution. By now it was dark. As I kicked the door open I already had my suitcase in hand, only to have my legs knocked out from under me with the force of the water streaming through under the vehicle.

So, there I was being washed away from the car, still clinging to my suitcase. I got swept about 10 m before I grabbed onto a bush on the side of the stream where I could pull myself out. I clung to that bush for dear life, trying to not be swept further away in the now fast flowing stream. I pulled myself out of the stream onto “dry” land, and as I tried to orientate myself, I realised that I was in Mopani veld – a very popular terrain for animals like lion, elephants, rhinos and buffalo.
Suddenly, I heard the sound of metal crushing – my vehicle was hitting trees and rocks inside the stream, as the water swept it up in its fury. I knew for a certainty that I needed to get off the ground and find myself a high spot if I was going to survive the night. Due to the sky being so grey and clouded I could see some of the tree silhouettes – all with an average height of 2.5 m. I needed something taller.

#krugerwildlifeantics
#krugerwildlifeantics

I started making my way through the trees looking for something high and to put some distance between me and the raging river. After about a 15 minute walk I started seeing higher trees which were climbable. What a relief knowing I just might be safe if I could find the right tree. Then, I saw a tree with the potential to protect me from anything on ground level.

At this stage, dressed in a wet T-shirt and shorts, the cold had set in with a vengeance! I walked up to the potential tree and looked at my options of how to get into it without abandoning my suitcase. Carefully, I started climbing, concentrating on not losing hold of either the tree or the suitcase! Once I found a branch strong enough to hold me, I sat with my suitcase on my legs. I needed to get warm clothes because the chilly night was fast becoming a long cold one. I managed to fish 2 T-shirts and 2 shorts out of my suitcase, and with a major balancing and contortionist act, managed to put them on. Then, I took my belt and tied myself to the main branch to ensure that I wouldn’t fall out of the tree if I happened to fall asleep.

#krugerwildlifeantics

Tied to a tree in the middle of the bush and the cold depths of night, I thought (with my empathy) of how Harry Wolhuter must have felt being up in a tree! At bout 02h00 , I suddenly heard the oh-so- familiar sound of elephants feeding, and they were close by. Branches were breaking accompanied by the low rumble elephants make. I confess, by then, I was just waiting for my supporting branch to break… Any chance for sleep was now gone.
As quickly as I heard the sounds it went quite…I guess they must have become aware of my presence and decided to move off in search of other feeding grounds. Those were tense moments, but I was relieved and relaxed and tried to unwind after their departure. I realized that I had to start making plans for getting back to camp once the sun rose. I planned to start walking at around 07h00 when it was clear skies, but when the first light came through the Mopanies at about 05h00, I climbed down the tree and surveyed my surroundings.

On the ground beneath my tree, I saw two sets of lion tracks heading towards the road… I realized how fortunate I was that they didn’t even realize I was up in the tree as there were no signs of them stopping at the tree. My senses started working overtime to try and see where the lions had gone to.
I decided to quickly just walk towards the flowing stream again just to have a look if I can see the vehicle, once I have reached the stream I could see the vehicle lying on its roof caught between two rocks. I turned and started walking towards the road, once at the road I walked from tree to tree for just in case those lions haven’t walked to far and I need to get to safety.

Then, suddenly I heard a vehicle approaching and at first it was weird as I couldn’t believe the roads would be open for public after the rains. Once the vehicle came into sight I could see the sudden stop of the guests. Well I would have been surprised as well, for it must have been very strange to see a person walking in the middle of the Kruger with a suitcase! After a long explanation, the guests took me to the camp.

The camp manager immediately contacted the workshop department at Shingwedzi to recover my vehicle from the stream. Once the recovery team was deployed the flat bed stayed at the tar road and the grader and front-end loader went to the spot where I got stuck. Right there, the grader got stuck as well, so the front-end loader went through the bush to where the vehicle was stuck. Fortunately, they eventually recovered it. The whole incident made me appreciate nature so much more and gave me a far greater respect for water as well. Now, I can strongly identify with how Harry Wolhuter must have felt sitting in a tree with lion around him! Hopefully, I will never have to experience such a situation again.